1 / 914 Nov 2026
4 / Daniel Roth
C317, Platinum, No 08/30, Papillon 10th Anniversary Limited Edition
Estimate: $200,000 – 300,000
- Brand
- Daniel Roth
- Model
- Papillon 10th Anniversary Limited Edition 08/30
- Year
- Circa 1998
- Reference
- C317
- Calibre
- DR113, Self-winding, 27 Jewels
- Case
- No. 8/30
- Materials
- Platinum (PT950)
- Bracelet
- Leather strap
- Buckle
- Daniel Roth Stainless Steel deployant buckle
- Dimensions
- Ø 35 mm x 38 mm
- Thickness
- 10.5 mm
- Signature
- Dial, case and movement
- Accessories
- Box, warranty and instruction booklet
Daniel Roth, Ref. C317, Papillon 10th Anniversary The Daniel Roth Papillon Reference C317, introduced in 1998 to commemorate the tenth anniversary of Daniel Roth’s independent watchmaking venture, stands as an emblematic creation of late twentieth-century independent horology. Distinguished by its unconventional display and signature double-ellipse case, the Papillon reflects Roth’s mastery of geometric design and mechanical innovation. Its defining feature is the ingenious wandering-minute mechanism, in which two opposing hands alternate across separate 30-minute scales, retracting and engaging in succession to indicate the passing minutes. A jumping-hour aperture at 12 o’clock provides an instantaneous transition at each hour, while the small seconds display completes the dial’s distinctive architectural symmetry. The dial showcases intricate Clous de Paris guilloché, complemented by contrasting finishes and raised nameplates bearing the Daniel Roth signature. The composition is housed within the manufacture’s unmistakable stadium-shaped case, measuring 35 mm wide, 38 mm long and 10.5 mm thick, with sharply defined lugs that follow the natural curvature of the wrist. Powering the watch is the automatic Calibre DR113, based on the Girard-Perregaux 3000-series movement and adapted to accommodate the proprietary jumping-hour and wandering-minute complications. Visible through the sapphire exhibition caseback, the movement is distinguished by its 18-carat gold rotor decorated with rosette guilloché, alongside Côtes de Genève, hand-beveled edges and polished screw heads. Combining an inventive display, meticulous dial craftsmanship and distinctive case architecture, the Daniel Roth Papillon Reference C317 exemplifies the creative spirit of independent Swiss watchmaking during the late 1990s. Produced in a limited edition of just 250 pieces across three precious metals—110 in rose gold, 110 in white gold and only 30 in platinum—the Daniel Roth Papillon Reference C317 remains a rare expression of the independent watchmaker’s creative vision. As appreciation for early independent watchmaking continues to grow, the Papillon stands out for its distinctive double-ellipse case, ingenious wandering-minute complication and limited production. Combining mechanical originality with Daniel Roth’s unmistakable design language, the Reference C317 represents a compelling chapter in the history of modern independent horology. ––
Biography
Daniel Roth, Watchmaking Passion Daniel Roth is an internationally renowned Swiss watch manufacturer, known for its high-end watch designs and horological complications. Born in 1945 in Nice, France, Daniel Roth developed an early passion for watchmaking. After graduating as a watchmaker, the young man moved to Switzerland, to the Vallée de Joux (1967). He was first hired by Audemars Piguet where he stayed for seven years. At the time, the factory only employed about twenty watchmakers. There he learned pivoting and adjustment, he worked on ultra-thin watches and tried his hand at horological complications. At the end of the 1970s, Daniel Roth was recruited by Breguet where he remained for fourteen years, during which he helped rebuild the prestige of the house. After three years, a watch was produced which is emblematic of the rebirth of the famous name and founder of the house’s current style. He developed the very first tourbillon wristwatch. It will be his final contribution to Breguet, but also the most remarkable. In 1988, he created his own fine watchmaking company at Le Sentier, in the Vallée de Joux. Innovative and avant-garde, he produces a number of watches with bold designs, characterized by their inimitable double-ellipse case, called “Ellipsocurvex”, a unique aesthetic of its kind which becomes the signature of his brand. The same year, the ultra-chic London shop Asprey ordered a mechanical double-sided tourbillon in 25 copies with a special second dial. The master-watchmaker can thus finance the launch of his brand and his vision. He produces various tourbillon watches, including the “Ref. 2187/C 187” (1989), a double-sided tourbillon whose elegant symmetry marks history and becomes the benchmark among all. Undoubtedly the most emblematic complication of fine watchmaking, the tourbillon is a rare complication, particularly in wristwatches. By marking his “debut” with this feat, Daniel Roth enters the legend. He then continued with the production of the ultra-thin “Ref. 2107/C 107” (1990) self-winding movement, the “Ref. 2127/C 127” (1991) retrograde or the “Ref. 2147/C 147” (1990), a chronograph with two counters (based on a Lemania 2320 calibre) and the perpetual calendar “Ref. 2117/C 117” (1993), all magnified by the elliptical curved case which has become its trademark. The instantaneous jump mechanism of the perpetual calendars of the C 117 was developed in direct collaboration with another great name in fine watchmaking, the talented Philippe Dufour. In 1994, Daniel Roth brand was bought by the family that owned the distributor The Hour Glass, then by the Italian luxury house Bulgari in 2000. Under the aegis of the latter, the founder continued to create high quality watches, retaining its distinct identity and watchmaking expertise. Bulgari will itself be acquired in 2011 by LVMH Group. The Italian Maison having decided to concentrate its production capacities on its own-name collections from now on, the year 2023 marks the revival of Daniel Roth as an independent brand, with the assistance of the spirits who animate La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton in Geneva. Under the direction of Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini (two great master-watchmakers of our time); the brand will produce a few dozen pieces a year. As a talented and respected watchmaker, Daniel Roth has made a significant contribution to the Swiss watch industry. Its name is associated with exceptional watches, combining horological tradition and technical innovation. Tomorrow’s new Daniel Roth watches will continue to bear witness to the talent and creativity of their creator and will most likely be highly sought-after pieces by collectors. -- Key dates • 1988: Daniel Roth founded his own eponymous brand in Le Sentier, in the Vallée de Joux, in Switzerland. He quickly became known for his high-end watches and exceptional know-how. • 1994: The Daniel Roth brand is bought by the family that owns the renowned distributor The Hour Glass. • 2000: Bulgari integrates Daniel Roth brand into its watch division, thus expanding the brand’s presence on the international market. • 2011: Bulgari is acquired by LVMH Group and refocuses its collections under its own name. • 2023: Renaissance of the Daniel Roth brand which envisages the production of around a dozen watches per year manufactured by the La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton in Geneva. -- Iconic models • “Butterfly”: this collection celebrates the 10th anniversary of Daniel Roth brand and pays tribute to the founder’s father, himself a butterfly collector. The collection will be produced in a limited edition of 250 pieces (110 in yellow gold, 110 in white gold and 30 in platinum). • “Endure Chronosprint”: this model, produced in partnership between Daniel Roth and Bulgari, combines a chronograph and a perpetual calendar in a robust case. It offers advanced features for lovers of sports and horological complications. • “Grande Lune”: elegant watch equipped with a very complex mechanism that allows it to indicate the time according to the orbit of the Moon.