6 / Ulysse Nardin

Ulysse Nardin, Timekeeper of Marines Around the World Ulysse Nardin is an historic Swiss watch manufacturer founded in 1846 in Le Locle (Neuchâtel Mountains) by Ulysse Nardin (1823-1876). The brand is famous for its luxury watches and its expertise in the field of precision and horological innovation. The young Ulysse first trained with his father, Léonard-Frédéric Nardin (1792-1859), himself a watchmaker. Then he was sent to the workshop of Frédéric-William DuBois (1811-1869), a talented watchmaker and expert in precision horology (clocks, marine chronometers and pocket chronometers). He also trained with Louis JeanRichard-dit-Bessel (1812-1875) nicknamed Louis Richard, well known for being an accomplished manufacturer of constant-force escapements. With such training, the young man became a master craftsman himself. Following in his father’s footsteps, Ulysse set up as a winder in Le Locle, at Le Verger, 17, in 1844. He started his first account book. The financing necessary for his installation is provided by his mother; his father also makes contribution. In 1846, Ulysse Nardin founded his company. Barely more than a counter, its watches are of high manufacturing quality; they work very regularly and bear the name of their manufacturer. This is the start of a horological adventure that has already lasted 177 years. In the workshop, Ulysses’ father works with him and finishes the complicated pieces while Isaline, the young man’s sister takes care of the setting. In 1860, he acquired a high-precision regulator made by Jacques-Frédéric Houriet (1743-1830) for adjusting his chronometers, which demonstrated his interest in precision instruments. In the 19th century, the time being for the exploration of the oceans and the development of international trade, Ulysse Nardin also began the creation of marine chronometers intended for navigation in addition to the manufacture of pocket watches with or without horological complications. A talented and visionary watchmaker, his reputation spread quickly. In 1862, the company received the highest possible distinction at the International Exhibition in London, the “Prize Medal” in the category of complicated watches, pocket chronometers. This award places it at the forefront of pocket chronometer manufacturers at the international level. Successes never come alone, he won the Silver medal for his new pocket chronometer with independent jumping seconds hand at the Universal Exhibition in Paris in 1867. In 1876, the premature death of Ulysse Nardin at the age of 53 precipitated his son, Paul-David Nardin (1855-1920), at the head of the company. The following year, the latter opened a workshop in his name in Geneva to facilitate certain manufacturing processes and develop trade. In 1878, he won a Gold medal at the Universal Exhibition in Paris for his marine chronometers and his ship’s (or deck’s) chronometers. In 1905, the name of the company became “Maison Paul-D. Nardin, successeur d’Ulysse Nardin, au Locle”. Paul-David, who had 15 children, is joined by three of his sons who occupy strategic positions in the company. Under their leadership, the house continues to innovate and push the boundaries of watchmaking. It is a pioneer in the development of new technologies and innovative horological complications which are reflected in numerous patent filings. The company supplies maritime ministries and scientific establishments around the world. In total, Ulysse Nardin marine chronometers obtained more than 4 300 marching certificates and 18 Gold medals at national or international exhibitions between 1889 and 1964. In 1983, the brand was bought by Rolf Schnyder (1935-2011), a Swiss entrepreneur with a passion for horology. Under his leadership, Ulysse Nardin continues to develop and expand its product range, while maintaining its commitment to precision and innovation. In 1985, the “Astrolabe Galileo Galilei” model was launched. Named as a man of the great eponymous scientist, it is equipped with legal time and local time, the month, the signs of the Zodiac, the height and direction of the sun, the moon, the time of sunrise and the moon, dawn and dust as well as the time of solar and lunar eclipses. Building on this success, the “Planetarium Copernicus” models (1988) followed, which represents the entire solar system; then the “Tellurium Johannes Kepler” (1992), the last opus of this “Trilogy of Time” designed and developed for Ulysse Nardin by Ludwig Oeschlin (born in 1952), an engineer passionate about mechanical efficiency. In 1989, the “San Marco”, a minute-repeater wristwatch with automata was made in limited edition in gold and platinum In 2014, Ulysse Nardin joined Kering Group. The house continues on the path of watchmaking innovation with the launch of its sixth movement designed and manufactured in-house: the “UN-334” created for the “Dual Time Manufacture” model with rapid adjustment of the time zone and the date. Today Ulysse Nardin is considered one of the most respected and prestigious watch brands in the world. It offers a variety of collections, ranging from classic watches to sports watches and watches with horological complications. Ulysse Nardin watches are prized by collectors and watch enthusiasts for their exceptional craftsmanship, elegant design, and chronometric precision. The brand continues to innovate and perpetuate the legacy of Ulysse Nardin by creating superior quality watches that combine horological tradition and contemporary innovation. -- Key dates • 1846: Ulysse Nardin founds the eponymous brand in Le Locle, Switzerland. In its early days, the company specialized in the production of marine chronometers. • 1876: Paul-David Nardin, son of Ulysse Nardin, takes over the management of the company and continues to develop the brand’s reputation as a manufacturer of high-precision chronometers. • 1983: Rolf Schnyder acquires the Ulysse Nardin brand and becomes its president. Under his direction, the brand developed and diversified, introducing wristwatches with innovative horological complications created in particular by Ludwig Oechslin. • 1985: launch of the “Astrolabium Galileo Galilei”, an astronomical watch that displays the position of planets and stars in real time. This complex watch testifies to the horological expertise of the brand and its interest in astronomy. • 1988: launch of the “Planetarium Copernicus”. • 1992: the “Trilogy of Time” series ends with the “Tellurium Johannes Kepler”, created in homage to the German astronomer. • 1996: the Manufacture celebrates its 150th anniversary with two exceptional timepieces: the “Marine Chronometer 1846” wristwatch and a revolutionary model called “Perpetual Ludwig” in homage to its creator, Ludwig Oechslin. • 2001: launch of the “Freak”, a revolutionary watch without hands or traditional dial. The watch uses a 7-day carousel-tourbillon movement and a direct gear system to display the time. This daring and innovative watch caused a sensation in the watch industry. • 2006: launch of the first self-winding “Calibre UN-160” designed and manufactured entirely in-house. • 2012: launch of the “Marine Chronometer Manufacture” and the base “Calibre UN-118” designed and manufactured in-house. • 2014: the brand is acquired by Kering Group. • 2020: launch of the “Blast” model with rough masculine lines and the complex geometric architecture of its tessellated horns reminiscent of a fighter plane. -- Iconic models and current collections • “Marine”: this is the most emblematic collection of the manufacture. These watches are inspired by the marine world and are characterized by their nautical aesthetic, their guilloché dial and their maritime functionality, such as tide indicators and onboard chronometers. • “Freak”: this is one of Ulysse Nardin’s most innovative and emblematic creations. This watch stands out for its revolutionary design, with a dial-less tourbillon movement and unique time reading. • “Diver”: this collection offers high-performance diving watches. These watches are designed to withstand underwater depths and offer optimal readability, high water-resistance and a unidirectional rotating bezel. • “Classico”: this collection is a tribute to classic watchmaking traditions. These watches are distinguished by their elegant aesthetic, their refined dial, and their traditional horological complications (minute-repeaters, perpetual calendar, moon phases, etc.). • “Freak X”: this is a more accessible version of the original “Freak” watch. It features a contemporary design, innovative materials, and a visible tourbillon movement.